Simple Hobby Homesteading

My sister-in-law and her husband live in Cyprus (island in the Mediterranean) so we are very blessed to get all sorts of amazing treats. Not too long ago she sent me a bag of saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. This wasn’t a little bag, this was a huge, “I love you so much and you are the best sister-in-law in the world” bag of saffron!

Saffron has a number of versatile uses aside from flavoring foods. It is used as an aromatic in baths, utilized in perfumes, and can also be used as a dye. And because its flavor and aromas are powerfully intense, it can be used very sparingly. Saffron is often added to many food products simply as a coloring, such as cheese, soups, rice, and even various alcohols.

I chose to develop my own soap based on saffron. It was kinda like an Iron Chef episode where “saffron” was the star ingredient but this was “Iron Soaping” and I was challenging only myself (I like those no pressure situations!).

I was also feeling a bit homesick for extended family so I decided to throw in some cedar as that is my grandpa’s favorite wood (he even has an email address with “cedar” in it, cool eh!). I wanted this soap to be all natural (no artificial coloring etc.) so I went to work researching how I would get a brown coloring for my white base I was using… hello cocoa (melted chocolate would have worked too). I wanted the bottom to look like wood though in the future I think I’ll try the melted chocolate as the cocoa didn’t turn it as dark as I wanted in the long run. Still turned out nice. The top glycerin part was colored with only saffron and I added saffron oil and cedar oil for the scent… oh how I love this bar of soap!

Adjust the amount of base and ingredients you use to fit your mold but I used the typical white, 9″L, 4″W, and 2 1/4″ tall Michaels Craft Store soap mold and the amount fit in perfectly. This is actually a very easy recipe with few ingredients which are all natural but it can be a spendy soap to make if you don’t have connections in the Mediterranean or Spain (they produce the most saffron). However, I have had many requests for the recipe so here goes!

Ingredients:

2 pounds white base soap (melt and pour). I used a great mango and shea butter blend.

1 pound clear glycerin base soap (melt and pour)

1 oz cedarwood essential oil

1 oz saffron essential oil 

2 tsp cocoa powder

2 Tbs ground oatmeal

2 tsp dried saffron

spray bottle with alcohol (70% rubbing alcohol)

 

 

Directions:

1. Clean and make your work area safe and sanitized. It is recommended that you wear gloves and a hair net while preparing melt and pour soaps but truth be told I only do so when working with cold process soaps. I do tie my hair back and make sure pets are out of the room so no doggy hair or my hair makes its way into my soaps.
2. Cut your bases up into chunks and put in two separate bowls.
3. Heat your white base (I use microwave at 30 second intervals) until melted. Stir to ensure everything is melted. If you can heat your clear base at the same time until it melts or do it after your white base.
4. Add cocoa to the white base and stir, stir, stir. You may add more if you want the color darker. Add oatmeal and stir to incorporate. Add cedarwood and stir to incorporate.
5. Pour into your mold soap into molds when grounds are suspended throughout soap base. Spray top with alcohol to get rid of air bubbles. Allow to cool enough to create a tough top layer that gives slightly when touched but you do not get any soap on your finger.
6. Add dried saffron to the clear base and stir. You will notice the color starts to change to a yellowish orange. Beautiful 🙂 Add saffron essential oil and stir to incorporate.
7. Allow the bottom layer in mold to cool enough to create a tough top layer that gives slightly when touched but you do not get any soap on your finger.
8. Spray your soap in mold with quite a bit of alcohol (saturate) and gently pour your saffron soap over the bottom base layer (many times I spoon some over first to make sure it can withstand the weight)
9.  Spray the top of the soap with alcohol to remove air bubbles.
10. Let sit in mold for a few hours (less time in a cool environment), unmold, cut, and enjoy!

There you have it! Enjoy and please oh please post pictures and/or comments of your saffron soap and about soaping in general

Jhenna

 

Welcome to Simple Hobby Homesteading’s goat’s milk bath and body product page. We have a wonderful herd of Nubians, mini-Nubians, fainters, and Nigerian Dwarf goats that provide us plentifully with rich milk for our products! Everything is made by me here at The Shepherd Hobby Farm and I can even tell you the name of each goat who’s milk goes into your product (I always label the containers after each goat is milked) if you’d like to know 🙂

These are all the goat’s milk bath and body products I currently have available! Please check back often as this changes on an almost daily basis as orders are filled and new soaps cure. If you don’t see anything you like please feel free to email me and let me know what you would like to see! We do take wholesale custom orders upfront as well.

Goat’s Milk: Goat milk soap is wonderful for people with dry or sensitive skin, or conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. It also makes a fantastic bar for folks of ALL skin types to maintain that healthy glow so don’t feel like you have to have skin problems to justify pampering yourself with goat’s milk products. Unprocessed goat milk fresh from the farm (which ours is) contains many benefits to include:

* alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid which help remove dead skin cells from your skin’s surface. This leaves new cells on the surface of your skin that are
smoother and younger looking

* vitamins…Goat milk contains many vitamins, but is particularly high in Vitamin A, which
is necessary to repair damaged skin tissue, and maintain healthy skin. There have been several medical studies showing that creams made with Vitamin A reduce
lines and wrinkles, control acne, and provide some psoriasis relief.

* Cream…Fat molecules are an important part of making good soap. The cream that is
present in goat milk helps boost the moisturizing quality of goat milk soaps

* Minerals…Goat milk contains important minerals for the skin such as selenium. Selenium is believed by scientists to have an important role in preventing skin cancer.
Selenium can also help prevent damage to the skin from excessive time in the sun

Shipping rate varies depending on the order but if you are in the Owensboro, Evansville, Boonville, Newburgh, or Chandler area we can easily work out a drop off 🙂 You can also mix and match any $5 soaps for the 3/$12 deal.

We also put together awesome gift boxes which I am working on getting pictures of to go with each description.

Please note each batch is unique and will look somewhat similar to the picture shown but may look a bit different depending on my mood, patience for artistic flair, weather, and any soap gremlins that stir up trouble in a batch. No matter the looks I promise each soap to have the ingredients listed and be amazing!

 

Lotion: 4 ounce: $5     2 ounce: $3    bagged (to fill your own container): $1 per ounce

 Essential oils

Peppermint

Rosemary Peppermint

Lavender

Spearmint Eucalyptus

Bug Off Blend (mosquito and tick repellant)

Patchouli

Muscle Rescue

Sinus Relief

Lemongrass

Lemon Verbena

many more… you name it I probably have it or can get it!

Essential and fragrance oil mix

Aloha California (orange coconut)

Lime Coconut

Vanilla Coffee

Fragrance oils

You name it and I have it… soooo many!

 

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Man Soap

*picture to come soon*

Ingredients:

312 Beer: The younger generation (mid twenties) seem to really like this beer so that makes this a Hipster soap, right? It’s a great beer folks, how could we go wrong? Beer actually adds to the moisturizing and lather of the bar of soap and gives amazing natural color!

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather, cleansing properties, and hardness to the bar.

Tallow:

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap… well, soap.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Shea Butter: Softens skin

Fragrance oil: Urban Cowboy fragrance oil, smells like a really awesome men’s cologne but not too strong… just right!

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Blue Lagoon

*picture to come soon (basic cream rectangle bar)*

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather, cleansing properties, and hardness to the bar.

Tallow: Provides creamy and stable lather. It also makes a soap that is very moisturizing and gentle to your skin

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap… well, soap.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Shea Butter: Softens skin

Fragrance oil: “Blue Lagoon” fragrance, fresh and clean smelling

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Childhood Memories

*picture to come soon (basic cream rectangle bar)*

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather, cleansing properties, and hardness to the bar.

Tallow: Provides creamy and stable lather. It also makes a soap that is very moisturizing and gentle to your skin

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap… well, soap.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Shea Butter: Softens skin

Fragrance oil: “Childhood” fragrance… think of clean sheets, warm breeze, and fresh air… yup, that’s what this soap delivers!

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Lavender

*picture to come soon (basic cream rectangle bar)*

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather, cleansing properties, and hardness to the bar.

Tallow: Provides creamy and stable lather. It also makes a soap that is very moisturizing and gentle to your skin

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap… well, soap.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Shea Butter: Softens skin

Lavender Essential oil: Calming effect on body and reduces anxiety, stress as well as promotes sleep. Most commonly associated with burns and the healing of skin.

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Date Night

*picture to come soon (basic cream rectangle bar)*

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather, cleansing properties, and hardness to the bar.

Tallow: Provides creamy and stable lather. It also makes a soap that is very moisturizing and gentle to your skin

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap… well, soap.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Shea Butter: Softens skin

Fragrance oil: “Ezra Fitch” fragrance… masculine fragrance launched by Abercrombie and Fitch in 2006… it has a clean and “modern” scent. Young men really like this soap! The scent reminds me of a young couple heading out for a night on the town.

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Beer Soap

#022

Ingredients:

Palm oil: Provides a mild soap that cleans well and adds to the hardness of the bar of soap.

Samuel Adams Lager: Ummmm it’s a great beer folks, how could we go wrong? Beer actually adds to the moisturizing and lather of the bar of soap and gives amazing natural color!

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Available with or without fragrance (frankincense and myrh)

$5 or 3/$12 or

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Coconut Lime Soap

#014

**Temporarily Sold out… Making more!!****

Coconut Dreams is a fun and refreshing coconut lime triple butter soap that stands beautifully on its own but pairs exceptionally well with our Coconut Dreams Goat’s Milk Lotion as well. You can say we put the lime in the coconut and shook it all up 🙂

Ingredients:

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Mango Butter: Moisturizing

Shea Butter: Softens Skin

Cocoa Butter: Moisturizing

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye)): Moisturizer

Lime Essential Oil: Uplifting and reviatlizing scent properties. Acts as an astringent (help clear oily skin)

Coconut Fragrance Oil: This fragrance is phthalate free. Fresh and clean smelling scent.

Shredded Coconut: Exfoliant.

Lime Zest: Exfoliant as well as an astringent (help clear oily skin).

$5 or 3/$12

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Oceanfront Property Soap

#005

Ingredients:

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Shea butter: Softens skin

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Oatmeal: Moisturizer, skin softener, repairs and revitalizes skin.

Ground almonds: Antioxidants reduce wrinkles and fine lines, fights acne, major source of vitamin E (nourishes skin and vital for healthy skin), exfoliant.

Epsom salt (magnesium): Essential electrolyte mineral for our bodies. So many people are deficient in magnesium. Often called the “lamp of life” magnesium is a skin soother as well.

Honey: Antimicrobial (antibacterial), anti fungal and a humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture). You’re welcome for the new “word of the day”

Ocean rain fragrance oil

Blue colorant: Can be special ordered without the colorant.

$5 or 3/$12

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Dinosaur Discovery Soaps

 

 

 

Dinosaur Discovery is a great soap that can be made to order with whatever scent and color (optional) you would like. I have a clear glycerin base that I use as well as a olive oil alove vera base… both are wonderful! The dinosaur is firmly embedded in the middle so it will take some great handwashing to get to him/her (how does one tell male or female dinoasaur toys apart? Ponder that tonight!)

Ingredients:

All soaps will contain:

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Shea butter: Softens skin

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Scent: Optional

Color: Optional

Choice of clear Glycerin and Aloe Vera/Olive Oil soap base.

$6 per soap

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Vanilla Coffee Soap

#003

Ingredients:

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Mango Butter: Moisturizing

Shea Butter: Softens Skin

Cocoa Butter: Moisturizing

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Vanilla Coffee: Fragrance, skin hydrating

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Jojoba oil: Most closely resembles the natural oils of our skin. Hardly anyone is allergic or sensitive to this oil (actually a wax) and therefore it is often recommended for baby cradle cap and diaper rash. Antibacterial and anti fungal and rich in skin nourishing vitamins.

Castor oil: A humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture) and increases bubbles in soaping (“bubble booster”).

Coffee Fragrance Oil: smells great and wakes ya up!

French Vanilla Essential Oil: Comforting and relaxing fragrance.

Coffee Grounds: Fragrance and exfoliation

$5 or 3/$12

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 Chamomile Face Soap

#019

**Temporarily sold out, making more**

Ingredients:

Olive Oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Soybean Oil: Adds mildness, lots of fluffy lather, and is moiturizing.

Coconut Oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Goat’s Milk:Goat milk soap is wonderful for people with dry or sensitive skin, or conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Unprocessed goat milk fresh from the farm (which ours is) contains many benefits to include:

* alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid which help remove dead skin cells from your skin’s surface. This leaves new cells on the surface of your skin that are
smoother and younger looking

* vitamins…Goat milk contains many vitamins, but is particularly high in Vitamin A, which
is necessary to repair damaged skin tissue, and maintain healthy skin. There have been several medical studies showing that creams made with Vitamin A reduce
lines and wrinkles, control acne, and provide some psoriasis relief.

* Cream…Fat molecules are an important part of making good soap. The cream that is
present in goat milk helps boost the moisturizing quality of goat milk soaps

* Minerals…Goat milk contains important minerals for the skin such as selenium. Selenium is believed by scientists to have an important role in preventing skin cancer.
Selenium can also help prevent damage to the skin from excessive time in the sun

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure
for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are
what make soap soap.

Palmarosa Essential Oil: Sweet and flral aroma with hint of rose. It has antiseptic, bactericidal, digestive, hydrating and digestive and circulatory stimulant properties.

Patchouli Essential Oil: Warm and earthy aroma with fresh fruity tones. Effective for combating nervous disorders, helping with dandruff, sores, skin irritations and acne.

Dried Chamomile Flowers: Provides soothing calming and cleansing benefits useful for burns, blisters, inflamed wounds, dermatitis, eczema, rashes and wounds.

$5 or 3/$12

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Can’t Wait Til Summer Soap

#002

Ingredients:

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Shea butter: Softens skin

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Jojoba oil: Most closely resembles the natural oils of our skin. Hardly anyone is allergic or sensitive to this oil (actually a wax) and therefore it is often recommended for baby cradle cap and diaper rash. Antibacterial and anti fungal and rich in skin nourishing vitamins.

Castor oil: A humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture) and increases bubbles in soaping (“bubble booster”).

Lemongrass essential oil: Invigorating and antiseptic properties. Astringent properties as well as an anti-depressant. Tones and fortifies the nervous system and soothes muscular nerves and pain.

Lemon-eucalyptus essential oil: Assists with ailments such as arthritis, bronchitis, cold sores, colds, coughing, fever, flu, poor circulation and sinusitis.

Lavender essential oil: Calming effect on body and reduces anxiety, stress as well as promotes sleep. Most commonly associated with burns and the healing of skin.

Ground oats: Moisturizer, skin softener, repairs and revitalizes skin.

Ground almonds: Antioxidants reduce wrinkles and fine lines, fights acne, major source of vitamin E (nourishes skin and vital for healthy skin), exfoliant.

Lemon zest: Exfoliant and antiseptic.

Dried lavender buds: Exfoliant

Dried lemongrass: Exfoliant, atiseptic and invigorating aroma.

$5 or 3/$12

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Goat’s Milk Carrot Bastille Baby Bar

#020

**Temporarily sold out, making more**

Ingredients:

Olive Oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut Oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Carrot Baby Food: Natural carrot ingredient beta-carotene is a powerful antioxidant that noxious and harmful toxins from our body works to remove. In addition, it enhances the regeneration, renewal and expansion of skin cells that makes you shed old, dead cells faster. The result is a fine white skin for those who have tried the product because healthy new cells are exposed.

$5 or 3/$12

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Eucalyptus and Spearmint

MY ALL TIME FAVORITE!!!!!!

**picture soon to come**

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Shea butter: Softens skin

Tallow:

Eucalyptus Essential Oil: Refreshing fragrance that is fantastic on skin ailments such as burns, insect bites, lice and skin infections, as well as to help combat the effects of colds and flu.

Spearmint Essential oil:

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Doggy Dreams Soap

#011

**Temporarily sold out, making more**

Here are the qulaity of pictures you will get when Casey doesn’t do my photography… I had snapped a quick pic to show her the stamped paw prints on teh burlap and she said she liked the sleeping Axel in the background… I hadn’t even noticed he was there!

This bar is a dog owner’s dream! The antiparasitic, antifungal,a dn antiseptic qualities make it not only perfect for a dog bar but also for people with athlete’s foot! So just jump in the shower with Fido when he’s due his next bath and trust that this shampoo bar is safe and beneficial for you both!

Ingredients:

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Shea butter: Softens skin

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Oatmeal: Moisturizer, skin softener, repairs and revitalizes skin.

Neem oil: Known as “plant with a promise” this oil is the wonder oil of all oils. Because of cost an fragrance (by itself) it is not widely used. Nevermind the cost, I needed a bath bar for my dogs that was awesome AND safe for me to use! Anti-bacterial, antifungal and anti-parasitic, neem is extremely beneficial in treating various infections and strengthening the immune system. It is extremely beneficial for eczema prone skin and will benefit people who suffer from psoriasis and acne. Its astringent properties help to cure minor cuts and wounds. Neem oil helps to relieve dry and itchy skin.

Castor oil: A humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture) and increases bubbles in soaping (“bubble booster”).

Honey: Antimicrobial (antibacterial), anti fungal and a humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture).

Litsea essential oil: Calming and anti-inflammatory properties. Is an astringent, antiseptic and natural insecticide.

Lavender essential oil: Calming effect on body and reduces anxiety, stress as well as promotes sleep. Most commonly associated with burns and the healing of skin.

Tea tree essential oil: Antiseptic and immune system stimulant. Fights all three categories of infectious organisms (bacteria, fungi and viruses). Combats acne, oily skin, head lice and dandruff. Now you can see why this is a MUST in dog shampoo bars!

Peppermint essential oil: Stress relief (so many dogs are totally stressed over baths!), topical pain relief, soothing and hay fever (allergies) relief. It is also an expectorant and

$5 or 3/$12

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Himalayan Mountain Air Soap

#006

Ingredients:

**Not a goat’s milk soap**

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Himalayan sea salt: Used to stimulate circulation, relax the body, lower blood pressure, soothe sore muscles, and remove toxins from the body. Has a rich mineral content that includes over 84 minerals and trace elements such as: calcium, magnesium, potassium, copper and iron. It can also assist with relief from arthritis, skin rashes, psoriasis, herpes, and flu and fever symptoms.

Peppermint essential oil: Stress relief (so many dogs are totally stressed over baths!), topical pain relief, soothing and hay fever (allergies) relief. It is also an expectorant and decongestant which helps clear your respiratory tract.

Rosemary essential oil: Stimulates cell renewal and improves dry skin, easing lines and wrinkles. Helpful in clearing acne, blemishes or dull dry skin by fighting bacteria and regulating oil secretions. Imprives circulation and can reduce the apearance of broken capillaries and varicose veins.

Lemon essential oil: Cleanser, antiseptic, refreshing and cooling properties.

Eucalyptus essential oil: Refreshing fragrance that is fantastic on skin ailments such as burns, insect bites, lice and skin infections, as well as to help combat the effects of colds and flu.

$5 or 3/$12 or

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Bunny Takes a Bath Soap

#007

Ingredients:

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Shea butter: Softens skin

Distilled water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizer

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

fragrance or essential oil of your choice::

Blue colorant

1 plastic toy bunny: Awesome fun and bendy

$6 each and can change scent to whatever you want for $1.00 extra.

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Aloha California Soap

#008

Ingredients:

Shea butter: Softens skin

Cocoa Butter: Contains natural antioxidants and provides a barrier that helps retain and restore the moisture in your skin.

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye):Moisturizing

Coconut oil: Cleansing and helps to make a hard bar of soap.

Castor seed oil: A humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture) and increases bubbles in soaping (“bubble booster”).

Shredded coconut: Exfoliant and natural healing powers in acne problems, burns and even fungus infections. Also helps with hair care, stress, metabolism, and even cholestoral problems.

Valencia orange zest: Exfoliant and just so pretty

Valencia orange essential oil: Light and airy mood enhancer

$5 or 3/$12

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Cyprus Sunset Soap

#010

Ingredients:

Mango butter: Moisturizing

Shea butter: Softens skin

Glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye): Moisturizing

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Oatmeal: Moisturizer, skin softener, repairs and revitalizes skin.

Cocoa: Contains antioxidents, has high moisturizing qualities and helps protect and soften skin.

Cedar and saffron oil: Earthy woodsy aroma and is believed to be an antiseptic, anti-putrescent, aphrodisiac, astringent, diuretic, experctorant, fungicidal, nervous sedative, circulatory stimulant and tonic.

Dried saffron: The most expensive soap in the world, saffron is used to lighten and even your skin tone, while cleansing away pore-deep impurities. It gently fades away pigmentation marks and blemishes; and grants you a fairer & flawless complexion. Adds a natural glow!

$5 or 3/$12

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Tobacco & Bay Leaf Soap

#030

*Picture soon to come, temporarily sold out*

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Cocoa Butter Dream Soap

#021

**Temporarily sold out, making more**

OK, seriously, this has to be one of my most luxurious bars so far. When I finished it I couldn’t stop smelling it and letting it cure for the last 6 weeks has been pure torture! You are so lucky I am even selling these bars because I wanted to keep them for myself but I want to support the Arthritis Foundation so it is in fact for sale to you. Amazing blend of essential oils, natural aroma of the cocoa butter (over 2 pounds use for a relatively small batch) and balance of complimenting base oils make this bar simply amazing. OK I used amazing far too many times but seriously, this soap is AMAZING!

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Cocoa Butter: Puts down a protective layer that holds moisture to the skin, acting as a softener. Contributes to hardness of bar and smells so yummy!

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Coconut Oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Soybean Oil: Adds mildness, lots of fluffy lather and is moisturizing.

Castor oil: A humectant (attracts and retains moisture to the skin) and provides great bubbles for the soap.

Distilled Water: Hydration for skin (do not eat soap!)

Sodium Hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Grapefruit Essential Oil: Uplifting scent. It is also a purifier of congested, oily and acne prone skinand is used as a natural toner and cellulite treatment. It is thought to ease nervous exhaustion and relieve depression.

Lavender Essential Oil: Calming effect on body and reduces anxiety, stress as well as promotes sleep. Most commonly associated with burns and the healing of skin.

Cedarwood Essential Oil: Earthy woodsy aroma and is believed to be an antiseptic, anti-putrescent, aphrodisiac, astringent, diuretic, experctorant, fungicidal, nervous sedative, circulatory stimulant and tonic.

$5 or 3/$12

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 Oatmeal Goat’s Milk & Honey Soap

#017

Ingredients:

Soybean oil:

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Sodium hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Ground and whole oatmeal: Moisturizer, skin softener, repairs and revitalizes skin.

Cyprus honey: Antimicrobial (antibacterial), anti fungal and a humectant (compound that attracts moisture to itself and helps retain the moisture).

Ground almonds: Exfoliant, rich in numerous skin-loving vitamins and is naturally moisturizing.

Avocado oil: Rich in vitamins A, D and E as well as amino acids and protein. Wonderfully moisturizing and excellent for anyone with extremely sensitive skin.

$5 or 3/$12 or 5/$20 for April

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Calming Goat’s Milk Soap

#015

Ingredients:

Soybean oil: Adds mildness, lots of fluffy lather and is moisturizing.

Coconut oil: Provides great lather and hardness to the bar.

Olive oil: Great moisturizer and forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture.

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Sodium hydroxide (lye): All of our soaps cure for at least 4 weeks to neutralize the lye. Lye, liquid, and oils/butters are what make soap soap.

Ylang-ylang essential oil: Has a sweet, exotic and floral aroma and is a highly sought after essential oil. Can assist with high blood pressure, rapid breathing and heartbeat, nervous conditions, as well as impotence and frigidity.

Pathchouli essential oil: Warm and earthy aroma with fresh fruity tones. Effective for combating nervous disorders, helping with dandruff, sores, skin irritations and acne.

$5 or 3/$12

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Acne Soap

#018

Ingredients: Goat’s milk, distilled water, glycerin (to include sodium hydroxide (lye)), honey, Cyprus Mediterranean Sea Salt, activated charcoal, ground almonds, neem oil, sweet almond oil, vitamin E oil, tea tree, lavender, lemongrass, rosemary and thyme essential oils, dried rosemary and dried thyme.

$5 or 3/$12

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Mid Summer’s Night Soap

#026

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing. Seriously, I need to get some more goats and make ALL my lotion with just goat’s milk!

Olive Oil:

Palm Oil:

Coconut Oil:

Sodium Hydroxide (lye):

Jojoba Oil:

Grapeseed Oil:

Castor Oil:

Mid Summer’s Night Fragrance Oil:

Blue Mica:

$5 or 3/$12

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Poison Ivy Rescue Soap

#027

Ingredients:

Goat’s milk: Contains minerals (such as selenium which is thought to prevent skin cancer), vitamins (especially high in vitamin A which repairs damaged skin tissue), anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing.

Aloe:

Olive Oil:

Glycerin:

Sodium Hydroxide (lye):

Pine Tar:

Tea Tree Oil:

Jewelweed Extract:

Cyprus Sea Salt:

Activated Charcoal:

Ground Oatmeal:

Dried Chamomile Flowers:

$5 or 3/$12

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Almond Biscotti Soap

#025

**Temporarily sold out, making more**

Ingrdients:

Distilled Water:

Coconut Oil:

Olive Oil:

Palm Oil:

Canola Oil:

Sodium Hydroxide (lye):

Castor Oil:

Almond Biscotti Frangrance Oil:

Ethiopian Ground Coffee Beans:

$5 or 3/$12 or 5/$20 for April

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Sweet Baby Chamomile

#004

Ingredients:

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Baby Rose  Soap

#023

**Photo soon to come**

Ingredients:

Palm Oil:

Goat’s Milk:

Coconut Oil:

Olive Oil:

Sodium Hydroxide (lye):

Canola Oil:

Dried Hibiscus Flowers:

Baby Rose Essential Oil:

Raspberry Hibiscus Tea:

$5 or 3/$12 or 5/$20 for April

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Half Pint Soap

*Picture and description soon to come**

*Lemon Verbena essential oil based

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Payment can be made via check, cash, credit/debit card, or paypal.

 

My soaps have been a way to raise money for the Arthritis Foundation and this soap is sure doing that job.

If you ever feel moved to donate you can do so HERE.

This has been one of my best sellers using a base that is already cured and ready to use immediately after it takes the hour or two to set up (even faster when you put in refrigerator.)

I have to give a shout out to my Keurig for making coffee soap SO EASY to make and so versatile. I am able to brew one big cup of coffee (or small, ain’t technology great!) of any flavor to use in my soaps instead of having to make a whole pot.

Sorry I skip around from grams to ounces but I don’t want new soapers to think they need a ton of base to make this soap (for me 822 grams seemed liked a TON while 29 oz was manageable… proportion has never been my strong point.) If your scale only does one or the other you can convert grams to oz or vice versa here.

Here goes… my Starbucks Vanilla Coffee Soap Recipe

29 oz (822 grams) Shea and Mango Butter base (melt and pour)… can substitute Goat’s milk base for awesome results as well!

.46 (13 grams) room temperature coffee (for this one I used Keurig Starbucks Vanilla Coffee)

15 oz (425 grams) clear glycerin base (melt and pour)

a little castor oil… I seriously wrote down “a little” on my recipe sheet and have no idea how much. I’m thinking it was only .5 oz.

.4 oz (9 grams) jojoba oil

.84 oz (4 grams) coffee grounds

.2 oz (4.5 grams)  vanilla bean seeds (optional, but I love them in there! Scrape them out of a couple vanilla beans)

.25 oz (7 grams) cocoa butter

.9 oz (25.5 grams) Vanilla essential oil (you can also add .8 oz coffee fragrance oil but I tend to like to stay away from fragrance oils if I can)

 

Directions:

1. Clean and make your work area safe and sanitized. It is recommended that you wear gloves and a hair net while preparing melt and pour soaps but truth be told I only do so when working with cold process soaps. I do tie my hair pack and make sure pets are out of the room so no doggy hair or my hair makes its way into my soaps.
2. Cut your bases up into chunks and put in two separate bowls.
3. Heat your double butter (I use microwave at 30 second intervals) until melted and add cocoa butter. Stir to ensure everything is melted.
4. Add about 1/3 brewed coffee, about 2/3 of the vanilla essential oil (eyeball it), castor oil and jojoba oil. Stir to incorporate everything.
5. Add coffee grounds and vanilla been seeds, stir.  You may need to reheat the base but be careful to not heat too much *DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO STOP AND GET A CUP OF COFFEE!
6. Pour double (now triple) butter soap into molds when grounds are suspended throughout soap base. Allow to cool enough to create a substantial hard top layer.
7. Melt your glycerin chunks.
8. Add coffee and remaining Vanilla essential oil
9. Pour gently and evenly into mold over top the triple butter base. Let sit to harden about 3 to 4 hours or 1 hour in refrigerator.

There you have it! Enjoy and please oh please post pictures and/or comments of your coffee soap and about soaping in general 🙂

 

Happy Soaping

Jhenna

 

 

 

Time for another soap installment!

We are going to up the difficulty level ever so slightly but still within the realm of “yes, YOU can do this!” Trust me, if I can do it, anyone can do it.

This soap recipe takes a little preparation ahead of time to freeze your goat’s milk and infuse your olive oil with chamomile. It is well worth the effort as this is one of my fastest selling bars (only to be outdone by my most basic goat’s milk bar which has such a boring recipe but amazing results.)

You need all your basic supplies for cold process soap making. These include:

• Safety goggles/glasses
• Good rubber gloves (like the ones you’d wash dishes with… not the thin “surgical” gloves. We are not doing surgery here people.)
• Container to put frozen goat’s milk in (thick plastic pitcher works well as does a 4 cup glass Pyrex meassuring glass… that’s what I use.)
• Thermometer (candy thermometer works well though I prefer my longer sciency looking one that I nabbed from Jackson’s chemistry stuff… note to self, order Jackson another thermometer.)
• Stainless steel pot… must be stainless steel as lye does nasty things to other types
• temperature resistent stirrer of some sort (shout out to my Pampered Chef rubber scrapers… always want to call them spatulas but those are the things you flip pancakes with. Seems like the two utensils should share the name.)
• Some sort of soap mold. Check out my “Grocery Store Soap” post to get some good YouTube videos of how to make a mold out of an ordinary box…

https://simplehobbyhomesteading.com/diy-homemade-grocery-store-soap-yes-you-can-do-this/

• spray bottle with vinegar (to be used in case you spill any lye on your worksurface)
• Kitchen scale (I keep mine in a gallon size plastic bag to keep it clean while measuring oils)
• Container to measure oils in and a separate container to measure lye in.
• Immersion blender… you could get away without this but it cuts the mixing time down considerably! Compare 3 or 4 minutes of pulsating an immersion blender with 30 to 45 minutes of constant brisk hand stirring… yup I’ll buy the $15 immersion blender.
• Crockpot (this is used to infuse the olive oil with the chamomile. No worries, you can use the crockpot for food again, no lye will be touching it)
• Big bowl for ice water or hot water

Ok, now that we got supplies all out of the way let’s get on to the fun stuff… ingredients! Remember everything is by weight, not fluid ounces.

1. Olive oil: 65 ounces total (for infusing) though only 48.8 ounces will go into soap (not the extra virgin or the virgin… look for the regular ol’ classic.)
2. Chamomile leaves: 1 box or 1/4 pound of loose leaves/flowers (you can easily use a whole box of chamomile tea. Cut bags open and empty contents into crockpot)
3. Castor oil: 4.3 ounces (often found in the medicine aisle of a store)
4. Goat’s Milk: 20 ounces (get buddy buddy with someone with goats or buy it in the baking aisle of the store)
5. Lye: 6.6 ounces

This recipe perfectly fills two of the white molds I got at Michaels with my 40% off coupon 🙂

That’s it, five ingredients. Almost seems easier than the grocery store soap doesn’t it! The goat’s milk and preparation is what is going to kick this one up a notch. If we were cooking I’d say “Bam!”… another note to self, come up with a cool word while soaping that means “Bam”

Put your goat’s milk in the freezer until it is very frozen. What’s “very frozen” you ask? Not slushy like, actual frozen chunks.

* Side note… have you seen the movie “Frozen” yet? Sooooooo cute! Tons of singing so my boys tried to hate it but they liked it and asked if we could get it, score!

Combine all 65 ounces of your olive oil with loose chamomile leaves/flowers in the crockpot and set on low for 3 to 4 hours (I just do mine overnight).

After olive oil has been infused strain the chamomile out of the olive oil (I have a little sieve just for this job but cheesecloth would work too). No worries if some of the chamomile flowers/leaves make their way through and into the olive oil, it adds to the prettiness of the bar. However, you do not want all of them in there… too much pretty can be a bad thing.

Step 1: Weigh out the olive oil and castor oil. Heat them on low in the stainless steel pot.

Step 2: Get your molds ready (line them, grease them with crisco, whatever trips your trigger)

Step 3: Put pitcher/Pyrex on scale and zero out the scale. Add your 20 ounces of goat’s milk.

Step 4: Get your big bowl of ice water ready… just in case.

Step 5: Put on safety gear! Ensure worsurface and area is safe, send the kids and animals out of the room to watch a movie… ooh FROZEN!

Step 6: Measure out lye. Add lye to milk slowly and stir slowly and constantly. Check the temperature often and if it goes above 130 degrees stop adding lye and put pitcher/Pyrex in ice water bowl. Continue adding lye slowly and then stir, stir, stir checking temperature often. You do not want milk getting past 140 degrees or it could easily scald and that creates a nasty smell and somewhat unsightly appearance (though some people like the appearance I haven’t met anyone who likes the smell).

Step 7: Check temperatrure of oils. Check temperature of lye mixture. Get them both between 90 and 115 degrees (both need to be about (within 5 degrees) the same temperature). If your lye mixture gets too cold dump your bowl of ice water and fill with hot water. Put your pitcher/Pyrex in the hot water and stir to warm it up.

Step 8: When both are about the same temperature slowly add lye mixture to oils and stir to incorporate. With your immersion blender pulse, pulse, pulse until you get a medium to thick trace. When I did this today it took me about 4 minutes to get to a medium, almost thick trace. If you want you can add some of the chamomile that you strained out of not much got into the oil. I added about a tablespoon.

Step 9: Pour into molds.

Step 10: You can cover this soap if you would like but I have found that this particular recipe turns out great without covering.

After 36 hours in mold you can unmold and slice. Then the hard part… waiting the 4 to 6 weeks for it to cure! UGH! It’s so worth it though.

This bar is so amazing for people with sensitive skin, especially babies. I always love to give this at baby showers.

I’ll update with a pic after I unmold tomorrow. Can’t wait!

May the soaping force be with you!

Jhenna

 

 

Ever look at the ingredients list of soaps in the grocery store? Even the “natural” soaps have chemicals and preservatives that may or may not cause health issues (we can all find research to support our theories on either side, not my point today). I don’t really blame these companies because their products have to have a long shelf life (who knows how long they will be on those store shelves!). However, when I can make a product here at home I jump on it like a frog on a lily pad. Add to that the simple fact that my DIY endeavors usually get me these products for a fraction of the price and you’ve got one happy hobby farmer.

I’ve become quite the soap maker lately as Kevin and I are looking for ways to raise money for the Arthritis Foundation through the AMGEN “Arthritis Bike Classic”. It’s hard to get people to just donate money because we have become a society of “I want something for my money.” You can agree or disagree with that but its an argument for another day… even I am guilty of wanting a product to show for money I spend (not good, I know, but I’m a work in progress as far as the be more giving, loving, and self sacrificing department). Enter soap making. People seem to really love homemade soaps and I have goats that I milk twice a day so this could be (and is) certainly an outlet for using that goat’s milk and my ambition!

Today I want to share with you a super easy cold process soap that uses ingredients you could find at any local grocery store, discount store, hardware store, and even your local drugstores. I hate to say it, but I can get every one of these ingredients, except one,  at my local Super Wal-Mart (bear with me, I live in a small town).

I’m going to give you step by step instructions for you to make this soap. I’m not going to go into much detail on the terms as I plan on doing a blog all about soap terms in the very near future. This is a super simple beginner’s soap and I hope you enjoy! Invite some friends over and do it together (confidence in numbers right?). Everything is weighed using mass on a kitchen scale, even liquids (in other words, don’t measure out the liquid oils trying to use the fluid ounces on the side of a liguid measuring glass).

Grocery Store Soap Recipe (makes 2 two lb loaves or you can use a couple small cardboard boxes or 1 medium box lined with plastic, saran wrap, or even a garbage bag… at the bottom of the page are some links for good ideas for DIY soap molds)

24 oz olive oil (I prefer the classic olive oil, not the virgin or extra virgin)

7.2 oz canola oil

2.4 oz soybean oil (otherwise known as Crisco)

12 oz coconut oil

2.4 oz castor oil… add at end, after trace (I’ll explain that in a minute… castor oil is often found in the medicine aisles)

18.2 oz distilled water (or fresh, clean rain water)

6.7 oz lye (pure sodium hydroxide,aka caustic soda, often found at hardware stores. Evansville, IN area you can get it at ACE Hardware). This is extrememly caustic and will burn a hole through anything quickly when mixed with a liquid so use caution)

**optional… essential oils or fragrance oils (about 2.4 oz for this recipe, meant for soap), ground oatmeal, ground almonds, fruit zest, honey, etc.

 

 

Supplies (do not ever use these supplies for anything with food after making soap with them)

Stainless steel pot (must be stainless steel as other materials react badly with the lye)

Thick plastic pitcher or glass Pyrex measuring glass (4 cup)

Thermometer (candy making thermometer is fine)

High temperature resistant stirrer ( I use Pampered Chef rubber scraper)

Rubber gloves (Decent thick ones, think dishwashing gloves. Not talking welding gloves but you better not be using those thin surgical gloves either!)

Safety glasses/goggles (optional mask… I use ones for painting)

Soap mold (see YouTube links below for cool DIY ideas)

Kitchen scale (I always keep mine in a gallon size Ziploc bag so it doesn’t get all oily or dirty)

Immersion blender (not a must but cuts down stirring time by almost an hour! Only $15-$20 in stores or online)

Spray bottle with vinegar in it (for use in case of lye spills/splatters)

Plastic wrap, garbage bag or wax paper (to line molds and for coering soap during gel phase)

Heavy blanket or towels (used for gel phase)

Big bowl with about 2 inches of water and ice (used in case you need to lower temperature of lye solution or oil mixture)

 

 

 

Step 1: Gather ingredients and supplies and clear away any food and food preparation things. Accidents happen and you do not want lye getting on anything you will ever put in or near your mouth or skin. If you want, you can line your soap molds with plastic wrap. People say it is easier to unmold the soaps this way but I can never get it in there right to prevent wrinkles on my soap. I prefer to rub mine with Crisco instead and just wash them after I unmold the soap the next day.

Step 2: Weigh out your oils Remember to weigh them using your kitchen scale. Dump them into your stainless steel pot (EXCEPT castor oil, weigh it out, put in separate bowl and wait until the end to add it). Put your pot on the stove and turn on lowest setting possible.

Step 3: Put on safety gear and make sure room is ventilated. Usher kids and pets out of the room. I combine my lye and water under the stove exhaust fan with my overhead ktchen fan on and windows open. May be overkill but I don’t want to take any chances. Lye creates a vapor you don’t want to breathe but the vapor doesn’t last long.

Step 4: Measure out lye and water in two separate containers (I put water in my glass pyrex… this is where we will be mixing the lye and water). You can substitute any liquid for the water but if you use milk (goat’s milk, buttermilk etc.) there are extra precautions that I will talk about in another post so you don’t scald the milk. Many people like to use room temperature teas!

Step 5: Carefully and slowly add the lye to the water as you calmly stir the water. The lye will cause the water to heat up drastically (to about 160 or 180 degrees F). It is ALWAYS LYE INTO WATER, never water into lye. Just think “I like to lie IN the water.” If you happen to get any lye on any workplace surface spray it with vinegar and wipe up with paper towel. If you get any lye (or lye water solution) on your skin rinse with cool water for 10 minutes straight. Lye will burn a hole through anything when it is “activated” by liquid.

Step 6: Check the temperature of the lye/water combination. If it reads over 160 degrees F place the whole Pyrex container in the bowl of ice water and gently stir (it will bring the temperature down). Let sit for a few minutes.

Step 7: Check your oils and give the pot some stirs. You want all the solids (coconut oil, soybean oil) to melt down to liquid. The more you stir the faster it will melt. You can raise the heat slightly as long as you continually stir. Check the temperature. You are trying to bring the melted oils the same temperature as the lye mixture (or within 5 degrees or so).

Step 8: Monitor your lye mixture and oil mixture, checking temperatures frequently. Gently stir, stir, stir. Take oils off the stove top as soon as everything is melted. Alternate as needed with the oil mixture and lye mixture in the ice bath to get them both down to between 90 and 115 degrees F.

Step 9: When both mixtures are within 5 degrees of each other (and fall between the 90 and 115 degrees F range) you are ready to slowly and carefully pour the lye mixture into the oil mixture. Stir by hand until all lye mixture is incorporated into the oil mixture (about 10 stirs). Spray the inside of the Pyrex glass (where the lye/water mixture was) with a couple sprays of vinegar, this neutralizes the lye just in case you forget there was lye in there and go to wash it. If either mixture get too cold put pot back on stove and Pyrex glass in a bowl of hot water.

Step 10: Put your immersion blender in the pot upright and all the way to the bottom. Pulse the immersion blender in short rapid spurts and you will see the mixture (the SOAP!) start to thicken. Keep blendering all around the pot keeping it to the bottom to avoid splatters. There are three traces… light trace, medium trace, and heavy trace. These are just ways of descibing how thick it is becoming. Thin trace is the point when oils and lye are mixed but the mixture is still very runny (like a thin soup). Medium trace is like a thin gravy or medium thick soup. Heavy trace is like thick pudding.

At the medium trace point (thin gravy, for this recipe about 3 minutes into blendering) add the castor oil and any of your other additives that you want (almonds, essential oils, zest, etc.). To my batch I added 2 oz lettuce fragrance oil and 1/4 cup ground oatmeal. Continue to blender for another 30 to 45 seconds, enough to get everything mixed in. I like to pour my mixture into mold right between the medium and heavy trace point.

Step 10: Pour your soap into your molds. I like to add a little oatmeal to the top. Sometimes I use a bamboo skewer to mix oatmeal in and make sure it doesn’t all settle to the bottom.

Step 11: Take your soap somewhere where little fingers will not poke and prod it (including yours!) and place plast wrap or garbage bag over soap in molds and cover with blankets so the soap will go through it’s “gel phase.”

Step 13: Clean up. I prefer to just put everything in my stock pot and leave it alone until the next day. This gives everything the chance to harden and the lye to become inactive on my supplies (except for the container I measured the lye in, I never wash that out). The next day I just scrape off the soap into the trash and wash everything in my kitchen sink (you can use dish soap to help get the oilyness off but often you only need the soap leftover on your supplies).

I really love this step because it gives me an idea how well the soap may lather and clean and it smells awesome! My hands are silky soft after washing my soap stuff! Doing things this way has never caused a clog in the drain as I’ve heard some people experience when washing up directly after making soap.

Step 12: Wait… the hardest part for me! Twelve to twenty-four hours after covering the soap you can uncover it. Leave it to sit in molds for another 12 to 24 hours (uncovered). You may then unmold it, slice it (it may be a little soft and that is ok!), and put it up somewhere because it has to cure for 4 to 6 weeks!

 

 

You have gone through the chemical process of making soap called saponification and it is time for nature to do its part. During these 4 to 6 weeks moisture is evaporating and making your bar of soap nice and hard. The lye is being neutralized so it loses all of its caustic properties and forms the awesome glycerin that is the base of great soap. Four to six weeks seems a small price to pay for awesome soap that could last you the whole year (depending of course on family size and how often you roll in the dirt). After that time you have perfectly safe and hard bars of soap that you made yourself and you’ll fall in love with!

Enjoy and feel free to post any suggestions, questions, or comments! Happy soaping!

Want to dnate for our “Ride for Arthritis? Tax deductible!

http://ccc14.kintera.org/faf/donorReg/donorPledge.asp?ievent=1087174&supid=400863333

DIY Soap molds

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7Wy7t7ZKIA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKtXsrL1uk8